Fogo Island : “Far Away from Far Away”
Fogo Island is not just a destination; it is an experience. Located off the northeast coast of Newfoundland, it sits on the edge of the North Atlantic. It is famous for its stunning geology, friendly people, and the contrast between traditional fishing culture and ultra-modern architecture.
1. 📍 Location & Getting There
Getting to Fogo Island requires effort. You cannot fly directly to the island; you must drive and take a ferry.
- Step 1: Fly to Gander (YQX)
- The closest international airport is Gander.
- From Toronto or Halifax, you can fly Air Canada or PAL Airlines.
- Step 2: Rent a Car (CRITICAL)
- Warning: You must rent a car in Gander. There is no public transit on Fogo Island, and taxis are limited/expensive.
- Tip: Book your car months in advance. Rental cars in Newfoundland sell out very fast in summer.
- Step 3: Drive to “Farewell” (Ferry Terminal)
- The drive from Gander to Farewell takes about 1 hour 15 minutes.
- Step 4: The Ferry Crossing
- Take the ferry from Farewell to Fogo Island.
- Time: 45–60 minutes.
- Cost: ~$9 CAD for the car + ~$4 per passenger (Return ticket).
- Pro Tip: In summer, the ferry lineup can be hours long. You need to be there at least 1-2 hours before departure.
2. 🏠 Places to Stay
Accommodation ranges from world-class luxury to cozy local homes.
- Luxury: Fogo Island Inn
- Vibe: One of the most famous hotels in the world. Stunning architecture on stilts.
- Price: $2,500+ CAD per night (includes meals/guides).
- Mid-Range: B&Bs and Saltbox Houses
- Many locals rent out traditional renovated “Saltbox” houses (colorful wooden houses).
- Options: The Old Salt Box Co., Peg’s B&B, Fogo Island Suites.
- Price: $150 – $300 CAD per night.
- Budget: Camping
- Brimstone Head RV Park: Located right at the base of the famous hiking trail.
- Price: ~$30–$40 CAD per night.
3. 🚗 Getting Around
- Car is King: The island is larger than it looks (25km long). You need a car to get between villages (Fogo, Tilting, Joe Batt’s Arm, Seldom).
- Roads: Paved and easy to drive, but watch out for Caribou crossing the road!
- Gas: There are gas stations in Fogo and Seldom.
4. 🥾 Things to Do
The island is about nature, art, and walking.
- Hiking:
- Brimstone Head: Known as one of the “Four Corners of the Earth” by the Flat Earth Society. A steep but short climb with insane views.
- Lion’s Den Trail: A longer loop (4-5 hours) passing abandoned settlements.
- Architecture (The Art Studios):
- Look for the 4 famous artist studios scattered on the landscape: Squish Studio, Long Studio, Bridge Studio, and Tower Studio. You can hike to them, but usually cannot enter.
- Villages:
- Tilting: An Irish heritage site. It looks and feels exactly like Ireland with old fishing stages, red sheds, and rocky fences.
- Iceberg Alley:
- In May and June, massive icebergs float down from Greenland. You can see them from the shore or take a boat tour (e.g., Fogo Island Boat Tours).
5. 🍽️ Food & Drink
Newfoundland food is hearty: lots of seafood, root vegetables, and berries.
- The Fogo Island Inn: Non-guests can sometimes book lunch or dinner, but you must reserve weeks/months in advance.
- Bangbelly Bistro (Fogo): Cool, modern spot. Great coffee, breakfast, and lunch. Try the fish cakes or cod tacos. (~$20–$30 CAD).
- Cod Jigger Diner (Joe Batt’s Arm): Traditional diner. The place to get classic Fish & Chips with “dressing and gravy.” (~$15–$25 CAD).
- Growlers Ice Cream: Delicious homemade ice cream in Joe Batt’s Arm.
- Grocery: There is a Foodland grocery store in the town of Fogo if you want to cook your own meals.
6. 📅 When to Go & Festivals
The season you choose dictates your experience.
- Late May – June: Iceberg Season. Cold, but visually stunning.
- July – August:Summer. Warmest weather (15°C – 20°C), puffins, whales, and festivals.
- Event: Brimstone Head Folk Festival (Early August) – Music, dancing, and local bands.
- September – October:Berry Season. The ground turns red with berries. Best for hiking.
- Event: Partridgeberry Harvest Festival (October) – Crafts, jams, and community dinners.
7. 📜 History & Culture
- Fishing Heritage: Fogo was built on Cod fishing. In the 1960s, the fishery collapsed, and the government wanted to resettle the people (move them away).
- The Fogo Process: The islanders refused to leave. They used film and media to talk to each other and formed a “Co-op” to save their island.
8. 💰 Budget & Practical Tips
Estimated Daily Cost (Mid-Range Couple):
- Car Rental: $100 – $150 / day
- Accommodation: $200 / night
- Food: $100 / day
- Activities: Free (Hiking) or $100 (Boat tour)
- Total: Approx $400 – $500 CAD per day (excluding flights).
Need to Know:
- Cell Service: Good coverage with Bell/Telus. 5G is rare/non-existent.
- Clothing: Bring layers. Even in July, it can be windy and cold (10°C). Bring a rain jacket and sturdy boots.
- Water: Tap water is safe to drink.
